Patna-Allahabad-Varanasi
Varansai was always a destination I wanted to visit with family. Around 400kms from Patna via Bodh Gaya, and considering the roads till we came to the highway it would take us about seven-eight hours. We left early though not really early. It took us four hours to reach the highway. We decided to first go to Allahabad and then return via Varanasi. The highway was smooth and the drive was enjoyable though all through Bihar there was no decent place to stop for a bite. It was almost night by the time we reached Allahabad. Hungry and tired, we decided to put our trust in the AL Chino café, recommended by Lonely Planet. Thankfully it lived up to its billing and we had a varied and hearty dinner to round off our long day.
The next day we visited the Sangam, one of the holiest sites in India. The sight of the calm river was a delight with the Allahabad Fort as an imposing backdrop. As the boat was rowed slowly, we enjoyed every minute of the ‘chappu’ boat with the new bridge on the river in the background. We slowly crossed the green waters of the Yamuna and approached the Sangam where it merged with the brown waters of the Ganga. It amazed us to see such a clear demarcation of colour in the water. There were quite a few sea gulls too, merrily accepting food from the pilgrims. In fact there were boatmen selling bird food. Sad!
Our boat stood still at the Sangam and we just enjoyed being there with other boats and the gulls. Cold winds caressed us but it was very peaceful to enjoy the meeting of the rivers and see people take a ritual bath in the river, made all the more auspicious as Makarsankranti was just a day away.
Varanasi was a delight and a complete change in character from Allahabad’s colonial past. The rush of humans to the ghats flows through various small and overcrowded lanes. It’s equally interesting to meander through them. Came the boat man with his boat whose opening remarks were that it is not a boat ride but a pilgrimage to see the oldest city of the world created by the God’s over a period of time. It would have taken long but since it was soon going to be time for the evening Arti we planned to do it in a little less time. By the time the ride ended and we had heard all the fables and legends of the ghats and the Gods, it indeed felt like a pilgrimage.
Every bit of mythology was interesting and supported with visual facts. We parked the boat in front of the steps leading to the river, which soon became a parking lot for the river boats,with interesting things happening. I noticed how in the heart of everything we still are environmentally conscious. A young girl selling small cups made of leaves carrying a diya and some marigold flowers hopped nimbly from boat to boat, for sale as offering to the river. My son loved to float the lighted divya in the water and I liked seeing him putting them afloat in water. Since the boats were neck to neck with each other we hopped over the boats to get out of the crowded Ghats before the long Arti got over. Actually having seen the Arti performed live at Haridwar I did not find the Arti here as captivating.
We walked back through the lanes now with an aim to look at the vendors selling all kinds of stuff ranging from conch shells, rudraksh, tulsi, crystal beads in necklaces and other bric brac including Stoles, Ganga jal, pictures of Gods and Godesses etc. Many local eateries were feeding poor people for charity and they had long queues outside them. After a good dose of chat, puri subzi and lassi we came home with a hangover of being to Varanasi, Kashi, or Banaras as one place is called by different names.
The next day we visited the Sangam, one of the holiest sites in India. The sight of the calm river was a delight with the Allahabad Fort as an imposing backdrop. As the boat was rowed slowly, we enjoyed every minute of the ‘chappu’ boat with the new bridge on the river in the background. We slowly crossed the green waters of the Yamuna and approached the Sangam where it merged with the brown waters of the Ganga. It amazed us to see such a clear demarcation of colour in the water. There were quite a few sea gulls too, merrily accepting food from the pilgrims. In fact there were boatmen selling bird food. Sad!
Our boat stood still at the Sangam and we just enjoyed being there with other boats and the gulls. Cold winds caressed us but it was very peaceful to enjoy the meeting of the rivers and see people take a ritual bath in the river, made all the more auspicious as Makarsankranti was just a day away.
Varanasi was a delight and a complete change in character from Allahabad’s colonial past. The rush of humans to the ghats flows through various small and overcrowded lanes. It’s equally interesting to meander through them. Came the boat man with his boat whose opening remarks were that it is not a boat ride but a pilgrimage to see the oldest city of the world created by the God’s over a period of time. It would have taken long but since it was soon going to be time for the evening Arti we planned to do it in a little less time. By the time the ride ended and we had heard all the fables and legends of the ghats and the Gods, it indeed felt like a pilgrimage.
Every bit of mythology was interesting and supported with visual facts. We parked the boat in front of the steps leading to the river, which soon became a parking lot for the river boats,with interesting things happening. I noticed how in the heart of everything we still are environmentally conscious. A young girl selling small cups made of leaves carrying a diya and some marigold flowers hopped nimbly from boat to boat, for sale as offering to the river. My son loved to float the lighted divya in the water and I liked seeing him putting them afloat in water. Since the boats were neck to neck with each other we hopped over the boats to get out of the crowded Ghats before the long Arti got over. Actually having seen the Arti performed live at Haridwar I did not find the Arti here as captivating.
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| It was interesting to see different ways for people to keep warm in the biting cold with bonfires under uprooted tree! |
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| The tea vendor had an inbuilt chulla with the kettle. A different form of Kangri. |
