Sonepur Mela
4th Dec 2014 was important for me as I was able to visit the Sonepur Mela which where I really wanted to go while in Bihar. Though it was the last day of the fair and the glitterati of the fair, the elephants, horses and camel would be missing, I still wanted to see the place which was important in mythology and history and I was not disappointed. It is also known as Harihar Kshetra Mela and attracts visitors from all over Asia. Till date, it is the biggest animal fair in Asia and lasts from fifteen days to a month. This ancient fair was where King Chandragupta Maurya used to buy elephants and horses and traders flocked here to procure animals for Imperial stables all over Asia. Sonepur, located at the convergence of the sacred rivers Ganges and Gandak, is a holy site for Hindus. During the fair, people also take a holy dip at the convergence and pay respects at the Hariharnath Temple.
I was fortunate enough to be accompanied by a close relative of the erstwhile Raja who lets out his land for the fair since the British times. This was very enlightening for me as, working on heritage conservation, I got an account and insight of how things were in the past. The Sonepur mela was a place for erstwhile Maharajas to camp here and enjoy animal races, shows and cock fights with winners earning much in terms of pride and prizes. The large tents of the Kings with all facilities were much talked about.
Apart from trade in animals, there were also were enclosures where dances were held. The morning shows were exclusively for the British and the Rajas while the commoners came in later.
The practice of dancing is still followed though it is now crude and vulgar, perhaps reflecting a slice of popular culture.
Coming to the highlight of the fair, big animals get individual chambers while dogs and birds were all cooped into small cages. People who procure Pedigree dogs at exorbitant rates should come and see how the female dogs are treated. The fair of course was more of a local haat with vendors selling things of daily use and farm equipment. Visiting the fair I got a sense that in terms of farm equipment and farming in general and items related to the farming sector we lag far behind in technology.
Another eye opener is the low quality products made of cheap plastics and food items which are accessible to a large number of rural households and the effect it will have on their health and the environment.
Among the fables associated with the fair, the legend of Gajendhra Moksha is associated with the temple in Sonepur. It involves the story of king Indrayamuna and the Gandharva chief Huhu, who were turned into an elephant and a crocodile respectively by the curse of great sages Agasthya and Dewala muni. One day the elephant's leg was caught by the crocodile. This incident took place in what is now present day Nepal. It is said that both of them fought hard for many years with their herds and while fighting, they came to the place near this temple. But ultimately the King Elephant weakened and took a lotus flower from river in its trunk and prayed to the supreme god Vishnu (Hari) to save him. Vishnu heard his prayer and cut down the crocodile with his Chakra. At the touch of the chakra Huhu was released from the curse. Vishnu also released Indrayamuna from his curse and took him to his abode Vaikuntha. A statue and a temple have been made to commemorate the event.
At one time the rule of the kings of
Nepal kings extended upto the left bank of the river Gandhak at Sonepur and the
remains of an old cantonment with a market still exists.
Seeing the largest animal fair of the world was a lifetime experience for me. Today, the Sonepur fair allows one to get a glimpse of rural life and see animals like elephants and camels and various other activities. No wonder the fair is a big draw for Indians and many foreign tourists even today.
